Wednesday, 1 July 2015

Kerala and the South West Monsoons – a match made in the clouds

(Going a bit back on our #Monsoon trail once again to #Kerala - truly we can't have enough of it)

After Kovalam’srainy beach and Trivandrum’s good Lord Swamy Padmanabhawatching the world go by on his recliner serpent, it’s time to move on to more languid country. So think Vasco-da-Gama,the spice trade, Travancore kings, Namboothiris, and as your mind meanders, stop and gasp at the magnificence of the Ashtamudi Lake. Inhale. You’re at the gateway to the famed backwaters of God’s Own Country, Alleppey.

As you make your way to backwaters-world, en route you could wrap yourself in acres of paddy fields like a wet sarong on a rainy day. Idyllic, green and wet, this is Kerala’s rice bowl, probably the only place in the world where farming is done below sea level.
Kettuvallams wait for experience-seekers patiently, tethered to the pier at Alleppey. As you step into one, you know it’s time to go with the flow. You watch the world go by, wave to the young boys running along the embankment, look up at the sudden flash of avian colour and enjoy the languorous ride. 



From Alleppey chase the dark clouds to Kochi, a delightful blend of old-word charm and bustling metropolis. Fort Kochiis a must-see place ideal for rambling and sauntering through its rich historical and cultural heritage. From the peace of the old colonial bungalows experience a different kind of peace in a Namboothiri home in Nilambur. This district is rich in different wooded forests especially teak, housing the world’s first Teak Museum. As you sit in the courtyard of a Namboothiri homewith the rains pitter pattering down, time stands still. 


Until suddenly…

You see a row of men lining up the path, beating their drums, and dancers dressed in the most vibrant, eye-popping elaborate costumes and head dresses, dancing in slow rhythmic steps, propitiating the Gods.Watch with awe as these Theyyam dancers perform this ancient dance to worship ancestors, in front of age-old shrines.



After the Theyyam routine, you come back to earth and chase the rains to Bekal, one of the best preserved forts in Kerala. Located at Kasaragod, this 300-year old fort offers a spectacular view of the Arabian Sea. While in Kasargod, a visit to the oyster farm, Oyster Opera, is a must. Listen, see and experience the  transformational oyster and mussel farming conducted in this award-winning eco farm recognized for its innovative methodologies. Yes, it’s time to whip out your travel diary and journal away about this remarkable enterprise accompanied by the warm outpourings from the sky.



As you chase the South West monsoons from one place to the next, enveloping you in perpetual dampness, you are reminded of Coleridge’s Rime of The Ancient Mariner: And now the storm blast came, and he was tyrannous and strong: He struck with his o'ertaking wings, And chased us south along.

From Kerala to Karnataka, onward ho. Or as they say in Kerala, “namukku pokam” (let’s go).